Vintage Trailer Love Without the Heartbreak

Part 1 of Atomic Trailer Chicks Guide to Buying A Vintage Trailer on a Budget

Five things every vintage trailer dreamer needs to know before diving in.

So you love vintage trailers and dream about owning your own. Great! But where the heck do you start and what should you look for?

Most vintage trailers can be restored or glamper-ized, but some are money pits or beyond practical repair. You don't want to end up with one like this below, or something beyond your technical abilities to fix. Not worth it!

Want to buy this trailer? Me neither.

I've seen trailers splitting at the seams be turned into cute little campers, but they definitely spent a lot of money and time that you might not have. When I started, I didn't have much technical construction know-how and got in a little over my head (see pic below right of my first trailer purchase). What a mess... Sadly, I ended up just cleaning and selling it a year later because it was beyond my skill set.

Trailer Fred interior. Not ideal, to say the least.

You usually get what you pay for, and honest people typically adjust their price according to the trailer's attractiveness (curb appeal) and how much or little work needs to be done. That said, you also might get some scammer trying to offload a dud trailer or something with a lot of water damage that's been painted over and gussied up. Girlfriend, be cautious!

Every vintage trailer most likely has or has had water damage at some point. Face it, they are 50 plus years old, like me, and if they don't have some wear and tear you aren't looking closely enough. But you may fall in love with a broken-down trailer with the cutest shape, and damn the consequences (yes, I have been there).

Even before you start looking at trailers, you should determine:

1. Budget. The great thing about this is that if you have the space to park it, you can purchase a trailer and fix it up gradually, so there is some wiggle room. But you can bet that a trailer that is listed at $700 is usually going to need a lot more repair or restoration work than something pricier. You might get a solid "barn find" in a rural area for $700 but generally that is getting harder and harder to do (thanks a lot Internet). One listed at $15K will generally need much less repair work since it has likely had a lot done to it already (but not necessarily). In my opinion. it should be pristine and fully restored at that price. Prices are relative too. What costs $5K in Los Angeles may cost $3K in Wichita.

To give you an idea of what repairs cost, replacing the bad sub-flooring cost me $450 in materials, not including the actual linoleum or finished flooring that goes over it.  Water-resistant, sealed or marine grade plywood (one option for subflooring) is not cheap. Replacing a small trailers rotted interior paneling can be even more pricey. You may spend $500 or more for nice white birch paneling (the material of choice). Aluminum siding is also not cheap. That being said, you can get some great bargains on surplus building materials from prop-houses and Craigslist. I just bought a huge lot of vintage linoleum tile in a dozen colors (enough for six or seven trailers) for only $100! If you are resourceful (and cheap) you can find bargains.

2. Your Skills. Assess what you know how to do, what you don't know how to do, and friends with the skills you might need. If you have an unlimited budget, good for you! But most of us don't, and reputable trailer repair companies charge $1000-$1500 a linear foot to renovate a trailer. Do the math: on a 13-foot trailer, that's over $13,000, not including the cost of the trailer.

If you don't know carpentry or how to use a circular saw or drill, you might want to stick with a trailer that just needs cosmetic touches. Or be prepared to learn some new skills ladies!

I am lucky to have friends with skills and have learned a lot from them. Make sure you are actually learning from your helpers, not having them do all the work! You never want to be stuck not knowing how to proceed if that person disappears on you. Of course, as always, show your appreciation!

During the renovation process, you may have to confront some fears. My fear was using a power saw. Frankly, they terrified me. All I could picture in my head was cutting off my fingers, blood spurting everywhere. I had to overwrite that image with one of me confidently and safely using the saw. I had a good teacher, and I learned. If I could do it, you can too. You got this!

YouTube is an amazing resource, but I have found that searching for helpful vintage trailer restoration videos is a crapshoot. I have seen all sorts of videos showing the absolute worst way to renovate a trailer. In some of the better ones, you have to sit through an hour of a guy talking to himself to get to a nugget of information. Or some cutesy story that promises much but delivers no useful information. Very frustrating and possibly misleading.

I highly recommend Vintage Camper Trailers Magazine's yearly "Boot Camp" for more advanced restoration projects and know-how (as well as a really fun weekend with nice people). I have attended twice and learned a tremendous amount each time.

Join some of the more active vintage trailer Facebook groups (like Aristocrats Anonymous) for great discussions and tips. You may encounter a tad bit of mansplaining, but be patient because they are nice people with good intentions. I have called upon their wisdom more than once. Do your research before tackling anything!

3. Storage Space for the trailer and parts. Many vintage trailers leak, so it helps to have a dry place--carport or barn--to park it. Funny thing, I went to the above-mentioned Bootcamp and it was raining all weekend. A full 80% of the trailers had tarps over them! In other words, don't feel bad if yours leaks. I purchased a pop-up carport to protect mine from the rain while I was renovating. If or when you start taking your trailer apart, you will also need plenty of dry, safe space to stash the parts (a garage is a lifesaver).

The alternative is RV parking or storage. Scout this out ahead of time, because it can be pricey and sometimes hard to find depending on where you live. Nicer RV storage lots can cost upwards of $200-$300 per month, depending on their level of security, parking space size, and room to maneuver. I am paying $175 per month for my RV storage lot now, but I am splurging because the lot is close to home. In addition, it is easy to park in with really wide open areas and they have on-site RV repairs. My previous lot was $75 per month but the spaces were super tight and hard to navigate, no onsite support. You usually get what you pay for.

A low-cost option is to check the Neighbor app which connects you with private citizens that offer a place to park an RV on their property for less than an official storage lot might cost. I don't have personal experience with the app, but it seems legit. I found a dirt lot out in the desert in Lancaster for only $30/month, but it is quite a drive from me. A more convenient spot near me was listing at $50-$100/month.

4. Size & Features You Need. Think carefully about your family size and what size of trailer you want. I fell in love with an Aristocrat Lo-Liner, Trailer Fred, but it ended up being a bit small for three kids and two adults. My Shasta Stratoflyte, Trailer Ethel, was a better fit for us since it could sleep 6. However, it was a much bigger, heavier trailer with a dual-axle and not as cute. I ended up selling it because it was more intimidating to take on the road than the smaller one (I only used her once). She ended up being more of a she-shed/guest bedroom at my house. Decide what you feel most comfortable towing. Now I have another Lo-Liner (a different one) and I make my teens sleep in a tent. I let them bring their friends with them so it ends up a win-win.

Shower in Trailer Ethel, a 1969 Shasta Stratoflyte. Adorable!

Decide if you can live without or need a bathroom. I personally don't want to deal with black water (aka sewage) and dumping it, so I prefer trailers without a bathroom. Vintage trailers without a bathroom are less expensive and easier to find because there are more of them. However, I know people that absolutely have to have a bathroom, and it definitely can come in handy. Decide this before looking, because it is extremely difficult to add one later. An option is to have a portapotty that you keep in a closet instead, to bring out when needed. My personal preference is a portable potty that takes a bag. Throw in some pine shavings for each "go", tie up the bag and throw away after each use. I use biodegradable bags for love of our planet.

5. Your Tow Vehicle. Know both your hitch’s rating and your tow vehicle’s towing capacity. Do NOT exceed it, or even come close. You can burn out your transmission by towing a trailer too heavy for your car, not to mention it can be extremely unsafe.

Car suspensions are not designed for towing. I am itching to buy a Jeep Wrangler, but vehicles like this don't have the weight or wheelbase to tow safely. Wranglers are rated for towing 2,000–3,500 lbs, but their short wheelbase makes them less stable pulling a trailer. Many restorers recommend a larger SUV or truck for safety (sorry Jeep).

I don't like towing with anything smaller than a Tahoe, Suburban or Yukon, but that's me. I know people who tow with small V6 SUVs, but I honestly wouldn't recommend it. You should also look into trailer brakes and brake controllers, as well as weight distribution hitches and sway bars for safety. I have more on that here: Load Your Trailer the Right (Safe) Way It is better to be safe than sorry.

Figuring all these variables out ahead of time will save a lot of heartache and hassle. Next up, How to Buy a Vintage Trailer, Part 2: Types of Trailers for some ideas and background.

As always, Happy Atomic Trails!

Disclaimer

The information provided on this website, in videos, social media posts, articles, or any other materials is for general informational and educational purposes only. It is not professional, legal, or engineering advice. Renovating, restoring, or modifying vintage trailers—and towing them—can involve risks, including but not limited to structural failure, electrical hazards, fire hazards, and injury. You are solely responsible for determining whether any project, modification, or safety procedure is appropriate for your specific trailer, skill level, and circumstances.

Always consult qualified professionals—such as licensed electricians, plumbers, structural engineers, certified trailer repair specialists, or certified RV inspectors—before undertaking any work on a trailer’s structure, electrical systems, plumbing, or towing setup.

By using the information provided here, you acknowledge and agree that:

• You assume all risk for any injury, loss, or damage that may occur.

• The creators, authors, and publishers of this content are not liable for any damages, injuries, or losses arising from the use or misuse of this information.

• Compliance with all local, state, and federal laws, building codes, road safety regulations, and manufacturer specifications is your responsibility.

If you are not experienced in trailer restoration or repair, seek professional help before attempting any work. Safety should always be your first priority.