Load Your Trailer the Safe Way: Vintage Trailers for Newbies

When I first started in the vintage camper hobby, I didn't even think about how to load my trailer, I just did it. Yes, I'm blonde (so I can make blonde jokes), but that had nothing to do with it, I swear. I was just excited to start my new passion! Then I saw a video on a trailer fishtail and losing control and freaked out a little. Yes, it is a scary scenario! That's why you need to know the basics.

Luckily, the mistakes I made were minor and I never had any issues, but ignorance was bliss. Now, as a more seasoned trailer owner, I can pass along a few words of wisdom to you all. I want to emphasize that loading correctly is crucial to towing safely. I am not an expert but have learned from the pros on the dos and don'ts.

Here are the main things you need to worry about when loading up and getting ready to hit the road:

1. Do your trailer/tow vehicle calculations.

Your trailer should weigh no more than the tow capacity of your tow vehicle. In fact, you should be way under the max tow capacity to protect your safety and the transmission of your tow vehicle. Most vehicle manufacturers advertise the tow capacity of the vehicle, so look it up! A general rule of thumb is the trailer should not exceed 75-80% of your vehicle tow capacity.

Calculate the weight of your trailer. If you don't know what your trailer weighs, the most accurate, preferred method is to find a truck weighing station and get it weighed. Weigh the trailer fully loaded (with your gear, water tank and propane onboard) and use this weight in your calculations. I also think you should weigh the trailer empty, to get an idea of what your gear typically weighs, so you have a reference point when loading up.

Another less accurate option is to look up the trailer dry weight on Google (if you can find it) and add 1000-2000 pounds for gear. The downside of this method is that sources vary wildly and so can your gear. This is just a conservative estimate I use for me and my gear--you will need to do your own calculations depending on what you carry with you on trips. Use this total weight in your calculations.

Just a note: dry weight refers to the trailer weight when unloaded, without your gear, water in the water tank (if it has one), propane or other cargo. "Wet" or kerb weight refers to the trailer weight when loaded down with all of the above. You should be making your calculations with the wet weight only, and be conservative.

This is one of the reasons why I love towing with my giant Suburban! I have owned two Chevy Suburbans (aka "the Beast" and "Cherry Bomb") and two Yukon XLs ("Beauty" and "Beauty 2"). I have always felt secure when towing. Let's do the calculations:

The tow capacity of a 2014 Suburban is 8000 pounds. My trailer dry weight is between 1500-2250 pounds, per our friend Google. Add 1500 pounds to account for water, propane tanks and gear (a very high estimate), which brings me to a wet weight of around 3750 pounds. That is well under my ratio of trailer weight/tow vehicle capacity (75% of the Suburban's tow capacity would be 6000 pounds) and way way under the advertised tow capacity of 8000 pounds. All good!

Final takeaway: never tow these babies with a really light car and don't over-pack. More on selecting the right tow vehicle in another post.

2. Pack intentionally and carefully.

Pack the heaviest things towards the front of the trailer, such as coolers, chairs, pop-ups and duffel bags. Place lighter-weight items, like pillows, sleeping bags, pads and the like, toward the middle of the camper (over the axle). I prefer not to load any extra gear in the very rear of my trailer. Your goal is to have 60% of the weight in the trailer in front of the axle/wheels.

Tongue weight is the amount of trailer weight that is distributed to the hitch of the vehicle. Proper tongue weight on a trailer is approximately 10-15% of the total loaded trailer weight. If you don't have enough weight on the tongue, the trailer could sway or fishtail. If you have too much weight on the tongue, the rear end of your tow vehicle could sag, affecting the handling of your vehicle. Think of a heavy rear lifting the front tires of the vehicle = poor steering. You are also overloading the suspension and tires in back, and increase your risk of jackknifing or other accident.

Both too much or too little tongue weight can be dangerous! (diagram courtesy ChatGPT)

Visually, the line across the tow vehicle and trailer should make a horizontal line without dipping or raising up at the hitch (see diagram below). You may need to adjust your hitch height also if there is a dip or raise at the hitch. There are adjustable hitches that do a great job of helping you align your vehicle and trailer.

Proper alignment of vehicle and trailer (diagram courtesy of ChatGPT)

The video below is great at showing how loading your gear can affect how your camper tows. If you can feel your trailer "tugging" on your vehicle while towing, you need to stop and redistribute the load! This weight distribution has a HUGE effect on safety.

3. Distribute weight evenly on both sides.

Evenly distribute the weight between the driver and passenger sides. Obviously, this is just an approximation. This goes for the supplies you have permanently stored in the trailer too. Don't end up with all the heavy items on one side or you may end up with problems towing, or even problems later on with your trailer's suspension springs sagging on one side. This really happened, true story. Trailer Ginger had her stove, refrigerator and storage all on the driver's side. Guess which leaf springs needed replacing after we had her a year? You guessed it, the driver's side springs.

4. Pack so things don't move.

Things shift, slide and move around during towing. Pack all heavy or breakable items in a way so they don't slide around. I put my camping tubs (heavy with supplies and food) in a pattern on my main floor area in front of the axle, along with the water jugs and pop-up sunshade. They fit together in the space like a puzzle which minimizes shifting or sliding.

5. Bungee cords and cabinet latches are your friends.

Finally, use a bungee cord or rope to secure any hard or heavy items that might fly backward or forward in the trailer when it is moving. Remove stove grates and stow them if they don't have clips to keep them stationary (yes, they make those). Make sure your cabinets close and latch, and that the refrigerator has a good latch too--particularly if it is full. One year we put a carton of eggs in the fridge, water in the door, and off we went. Dumb! Our fridge popped open on the ride and guess what we had all over the floor when we got there? Yep...talk about a gross, smelly cleanup. But it was completely my fault--it had happened in a minor way (one broken egg) on the previous trip, and I didn't learn. Okay, now you can make the blonde jokes.

This video shows the reasons why we load most of the weight in front and over the axle. It also is a good lesson on why you should never overload your trailer.

The Fishtail

Final thoughts...No one wants to experience trailer sway (aka the dreaded fishtail)--it is terrifying and can be life threatening. If your trailer is loaded improperly, anything can cause it; a stiff wind gust, a passing 18-wheeler, swerving to miss a pothole. If it feels like your camper is towing you (pulling the car in any way) instead of the other way around, you need to address the weight and loading issue as soon as you can. Pull over and redistribute the weight!

A great option to avoid sway: use a weight distribution hitch (WDH). Particularly if your trailer is heavy, a weight-distribution hitch can help spread tongue weight across both vehicle and trailer axles, improving control and reducing potential sway/fishtail. I found one in the storage compartment of Trailer Ethel when I got her but never used it because I had no idea what it was (duh, newbie). They seem heavy, unweildy, and I see them alot on those gargantuan modern trailers and fifth-wheels. I have never used one on any of my vintage trailers or seen them used on other vintage trailers, but I am really interested. Maybe a future addition? I will let you know.

Worst case scenario, if you start to fishtail, don't panic and don't slam on the brakes! Some people say to increase your speed to "pull" the trailer out of the wobble, which is good in theory but doesn't necessarily work in practice. The best way is to use a brake controller with your trailer brakes. If you don't know what a brake controller is, it is a piece of equipment installed in your tow vehicle that controls the brakes of the trailer. Some tow vehicles have an integrated trailer brake controller, which is nice because then you don't need to have one installed. Using a brake controller (or integrated trailer brakes) slow the trailer (by hitting the trailer brakes only) to stabilize the trailer. Then gently slow your vehicle down once you have gotten it under control. See the video below, which explains it very clearly.

After you get your wobbly camper under control, you will definitely want to stop somewhere safe and recover your wits (and probably change your panties too). While you are getting your racing heart under control, assess your load and re-distribute as necessary.

Happy & Safe Atomic Trails!

Disclaimer

The information provided on this website, in videos, social media posts, articles, or any other materials is for general informational and educational purposes only. It is not professional, legal, or engineering advice. Renovating, restoring, or modifying vintage trailers—and towing them—can involve risks, including but not limited to structural failure, electrical hazards, fire hazards, and injury. You are solely responsible for determining whether any project, modification, or safety procedure is appropriate for your specific trailer, skill level, and circumstances.

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If you are not experienced in trailer restoration or repair, seek professional help before attempting any work. Safety should always be your first priority.