To Gut or Not to Gut? That is the question...

Yes, dear readers, I’m going to address the controversial issue of gutting your trailer. This is not a decision to take lightly—it could mean the life or death of your trailer, and it may even affect your personal safety.

When I first entered the vintage trailer world, one of the best pieces of advice I ever received in forums and restoration groups was: “Do not, under any circumstances, gut your trailer.” Excellent advice!

The logic is sound, especially for newcomers. It’s tempting to think, “I’ll just rip out those ugly cabinets and fixtures,” or to be lured by a cheap “blank slate” shell that someone has stripped. But here’s the truth: those cabinets, bunks, and built-ins aren’t just for storage or sleeping—they’re part of the trailer’s structure. They hold it together at highway speeds. Remove them, and your trailer could quite literally fall apart.

The thing is, the cabinets, bed frames, bunks and other interior fixtures in these little beauties actually have a function. They provide the structure and support that keeps the trailer together at high speeds on the freeway. Seriously!

If you dissect a trailer, there really isn't that much there in terms of exterior framing to keep it together. Wood framing, paneling and tin. The manufacturers were brilliant...in my humble opinion. They wanted lightweight trailers that could be towed by more customers, so they skimped on the exterior wood framing but added interior cabinets, beds, etc. that have a dual function. These interior features are not only serve their practical purposes but tie walls together and reduce flex during travel. They act as extra framing to help with rigidity and body integrity. When you remove that interior cabinetry, walls, etc., the trailer may well fall to pieces.

This is what happens to trailers that are gutted inside (picture below). True story.

The exterior probably looked and felt solid, but the high speeds on the freeway took it completely apart. This was an actual Facebook post recently of someone who had a gutted trailer towed to him.

Obviously it never made it. You can't do much with a trailer this mangled. There isn't anything to save (except maybe the door and any unbroken windows). Tragic!

NEVER tow a gutted trailer, and I would even hesitate to bring it home on a flatbed. If you really think about it, that cute little vintage trailer has to withstand gale force winds every time you get on the freeway (39-54 mph is gale force and 40-72 mph is gale tornado force). Don't take away the structure that keeps it together! Think "tornado in a trailer park"-- Not a good image!

That said, I am going to say something that might get me banned from all the vintage trailer groups out there (shhh). There are some times where you can get away with gutting your trailer, or buying a gutted trailer. BUT... NOT as a newbie! You really have to know what you are doing to risk buying a gutted trailer or gutting your trailer.

A stripped out trailer can be a very good buy if you know what you are doing. You can get some really adorable gutted trailers for cheap when their poor owners got in over their heads or got too busy to finish their project. No judgement on them. I know the feeling of being so overwhelmed by a project that you're not sure where to start, or it turned out to be more of a project than you thought originally. Or you just didn't know that you shouldn't tear everything out...until you did.

There are ways to tow a gutted trailer, although it is still a HUGE risk. You will need to add interior bracing, front to back and side to side, in several places, in order to tow it. I did it with my frame up restoration, Trailer Tabitha. Tons of 2x4s screwed into all the framing inside. Even then, the chicken in me would never take it on the freeway.

Stick to back roads and tow it slowly and carefully to your destination. I wouldn't go over 35, to be honest, even with the extra bracing. I am not an engineer, so I would rather be safe than sorry. This is assuming that the walls, framing and seams are solid. I had redone the subfloor, flooring, wall framing and paneling, recreated the bed frames and kept all the cabinetry myself in Tabitha, so I knew it was solid. That's why I took the risk of towing it to a new location, bracing in. Even then it was only out of necessity. With an old trailer of unknown integrity, I would strongly advise against this!

To re-create structural integrity in a gutted trailer, you are going to need to recreate the interior framing. Build new cabinets, beds and shelving, as much like the original as possible. These little beauties were carefully designed, if not always carefully put together. Manufacturers put cabinets in certain places for a reason. They put beds and walls in other places for a reason. You are going to need to research your model and replicate that interior cabinetry as much as possible so that the tongue weight on your hitch and balance over the wheels is as close to the original as possible. For more about hitch weight and balance, see my article on Towing Safely, the Basics.

If you do decide to change the layout, beware! I really wouldn't recommend it. I am even careful when I remove a bunk. I will either create a substantial shelf along the same line as the bunk, or add reinforcement to the framing on that side to compensate. Call me overly cautious, but I would rather not see my money and hard work turn into roadkill.

Truly, I wouldn't recommend gutting your trailer unless you are very experienced at trailer restoration. Something for newbies to aspire to...

As always, Happy Atomic Trails!

Disclaimer

The information provided on this website, in videos, social media posts, articles, or any other materials is for general informational and educational purposes only. It is not professional, legal, or engineering advice. Renovating, restoring, or modifying vintage trailers—and towing them—can involve risks, including but not limited to structural failure, electrical hazards, fire hazards, and injury. You are solely responsible for determining whether any project, modification, or safety procedure is appropriate for your specific trailer, skill level, and circumstances.

Always consult qualified professionals—such as licensed electricians, plumbers, structural engineers, certified trailer repair specialists, or certified RV inspectors—before undertaking any work on a trailer’s structure, electrical systems, plumbing, or towing setup.

By using the information provided here, you acknowledge and agree that:

• You assume all risk for any injury, loss, or damage that may occur.

• The creators, authors, and publishers of this content are not liable for any damages, injuries, or losses arising from the use or misuse of this information.

• Compliance with all local, state, and federal laws, building codes, road safety regulations, and manufacturer specifications is your responsibility.

If you are not experienced in trailer restoration or repair, seek professional help before attempting any work. Safety should always be your first priority.