Trailer Price Tag: What’s It Really Worth?

Part 5 of Atomic Trailer Chicks Guide to Buying A Vintage Trailer

How to figure out what that cute camper is really worth. Tips for research, inspections, and haggling before you buy.

ChatGPT AI-generated image of a trailer

Once I asked a pro how do you know how much a vintage trailer is worth. His reply? "Whatever you pay for it".

This is 100% true. There is no Kelley Blue Book for vintage trailers. You have to decide how much it is worth on your own. Never fear...it isn't as hard as it seems.

How much would you pay for the trailer on the left? No idea? Me neither, because it is an AI-generated image of one of my trailers, all gussied up. It looks pretty perfect, right? So do a LOT of vintage trailers online. Do they look that way in real life? Heck no! With all the AI-generated photography tools nowadays, don't be fooled.

You won't really know how to bid or haggle for a price until you see the trailer in person. I would never, I repeat, never buy a trailer sight-unseen. You can cover up a multitude of blemishes with good staging and photography (or AI).

Always inspect your prospective trailer in person. I see posts of people buying adorable trailers on eBay or Craigslist without visiting or inspecting them. They took the seller's word that the condition was as-advertised. They go to pick it up, or have it delivered, and boy are they surprised. Trailer horror stories! Trust but verify, is my motto. See Inspecting Your Trailer for more on that.

The best way to get a good deal or to pay a good price for a vintage trailer is to start by conducting research ahead of time. Scour Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace and other avenues for local classified ads for vintage trailers. I say local because a trailer in Los Angeles goes for quite a bit more than one in Tennessee.

Visit several trailers in person to get an idea of condition and model vs. price. The general rule is: the better the condition, the higher the price. Same goes for "cuteness" factor. The more attractive shape or model, the higher the price. Owners will usually know what is wrong with their trailer, how much work it needs, what they have repaired, and price it accordingly (usually marking it up $1000 or so for haggle room).

You will sometimes find a huckster trying to pull a fast one, covering water damage with paint, weak floors with plank flooring, and so on, but that happens less than you think. I suppose I am an optimist! I think it is more a case where the seller loves their trailer so much that they overlook blemishes and ask more than it is worth. Softie me, I know.

Expect to pay a premium for a trailer that has been fully renovated or restored. Especially if they installed modern amenities like solar, TV, or air-conditioning. We are talking $15K and up. Don't worry if that is not in the cards for your or your budget. Deals can be had on solid trailers that only need cosmetic updates (just like a house). You will pay more for a rounded, canned-ham shape than a blockier style because they are more popular. Do enough research on your make/model to get a feel for the pricing. I know that is harder with less common makes of trailer, so match for relative "cuteness" factor instead to get a feel for pricing.

Just a note: Be aware that in general there is an inverse relationship between price vs. the work a trailer needs. The more you pay on the front end, the less work needed to make it road or show worthy. Cheap trailer = lots of work and money on the back end. That bargain basement fixer-upper may take years of renovation and money spent on parts to be usable. You might be better off increasing your purchase budget to get a trailer you can camp in right away. I have done both and in my experience, paying a little more for camp-ready is more enjoyable. A trailer will always need work (they are 60 years old, after all) but being able to show her off and camp with her is really motivating.

After you have inspected the trailer in person (girl, do not skip this step!) make a list of its strengths and weaknesses (it will have both). A pros and cons list, as you were. This will help you not only make a smarter decision (walk away or purchase), but will help you figure out how much the trailer is worth.

Next, make a list all the things that need to be repaired, with an estimate for each repair. Call around if you need to find repair costs (battery, tires, refrigerator, etc). Add those costs together, along with any supplies or parts you may need. Keep that in mind, as well as how much time & effort it will take to do repairs, when you are formulating your offer.

After you have your pros/cons and repair costs list, compare this with the research you have done. Go with your gut feeling here too.

Trailer Tabitha, cute but turned into a bigger project than expected. Weak subfloors were hidden under plank flooring.

Once I found an adorable trailer (Tabitha, the Rolls Royal) that needed some work. My gut feeling was it was worth $1000, but agreed on $2000. I didn't haggle as much as I should have because I loved it. I ignored my gut. A mistake that you can learn from. I found out later that the sub-floor was bad and they cleverly hid it. Yes folks, it was probably worth $1000, not what I paid for it. Live and learn.

Once you have a price in mind, offer a price lower than your ideal sale price or what you think it is worth. Most sellers raise the price to leave room for negotiation. Never pay what they are asking unless you have money to burn. I grew up in Thailand where haggling for everything is the norm. The practice remains less comfortable in the U.S. for cultural reasons. Get over it and do what Thai's do: haggle!

Women tend to be too nice for the most part, and lack confidence when negotiating. I apologize if you are a baddie, you go to town girl! You are not there to pay for more than it is worth. Mention the work it needs and repair costs if helps. Having a friend along for moral support is great too, and they can keep you on track so you don't lose your head over an adorable fixer. I like to inspect the trailer with the seller close by, pointing out problems as I see them for more leverage. Haggle until you reach a reasonable price, one you are willing to pay. Remember: you can do this!

If you just can't come to an agreement, be prepared to walk away. Many sellers would rather negotiate more than have you walk away, so they may reconsider or lower the price at that point. If not, that's ok. Give yourself some time and space to think about it, and for the seller to think about it. You can always come back see it again if it still available. Vintage trailers don’t generally sell quickly, unless they’re highly desirable models in great condition.

If you get to a price you are willing to pay, go for it! Make sure you and the seller fill out a Bill of Sale with information of both parties. This is a good practice, and gives you some measure of safety (and proof) if you have difficulties with title or registration.

The seller should sign the title over to you, signed by them and filled out with your information on the back. Some sellers do not have title on-hand, which is a red flag. In some states, it is really difficult to register one without a title, and can be a hassle getting a duplicate title. Research the process in your state before purchase! It will save you a big headache later on, trust me.

Trailer Ginger and the fam on a yearly trip.

*A note on salvaged titles: This may not be as big a deal as it sounds. It means the trailer was in an accident (or had damage) and the cost of repairing it was more than the insurance company thought it was worth. Because insurers often undervalue vintage trailers due to their age, a salvage title isn’t always a dealbreaker—especially if the trailer has since been restored properly. I owned a trailer with a salvage title (Ginger, right) and used her for years with no issues. Still, be cautious: if you notice poor fixes or other red flags, walk away!

The seller should also give you their copy of the registration so you have it to take to the DMV (it also has their information on it for good measure). If the registration is not current, require the seller go to the DMV and bring it up to date. You don't want to get stuck owing 10 years of back registration fees (plus penalties). This happens a lot with fixer trailers because they are not on the road. They may have been sitting lonely in a lot, needing renovation. Don't get taken for a ride because you are afraid they will sell it out from under you. If they do, it will be a good thing because you didn't get suckered (someone else did). There will always be another cute trailer for sale in the future.

Good luck with this, I hope you find the trailer of your dreams!

As always, Happy Atomic Trails!

Disclaimer

The information provided on this website, in videos, social media posts, articles, or any other materials is for general informational and educational purposes only. It is not professional, legal, or engineering advice.

Renovating, restoring, or modifying vintage trailers—and towing them—can involve risks, including but not limited to structural failure, electrical hazards, fire hazards, and injury. You are solely responsible for determining whether any project, modification, or safety procedure is appropriate for your specific trailer, skill level, and circumstances.

Always consult qualified professionals—such as licensed electricians, plumbers, structural engineers, certified trailer repair specialists, or certified RV inspectors—before undertaking any work on a trailer’s structure, electrical systems, plumbing, or towing setup.

By using the information provided here, you acknowledge and agree that:

·       You assume all risk for any injury, loss, or damage that may occur.

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·       Compliance with all local, state, and federal laws, building codes, road safety regulations, and manufacturer specifications is your responsibility.

If you are not experienced in trailer restoration or repair, seek professional help before attempting any work. Safety should always be your first priority.